An Izmir Sunset

by fade_out79

Flickr Tags: Izmir,Turkey

Kemeralti – Izmir, Turkey

Flickr Tags: Turkey,Turkish Culture,Izmir,Kemeralti,Artwork,Art,Digital Art

A Sunday Picnic with Friends

My wife and I spent the day with a dozen or so of her friends from the opera at a beach, a tucked-away cove, about an hour south of Izmir.  The weather was absolutely perfect. There were just enough people there to allow solitude and peace or activity and socializing.

All along the sea, the wild daisy are in bloom, often mixed with an occasional blood-red poppy.

Technorati Tags: Izmir Turkey

Turkish Holiday

Holiday... HD // 2009 from Techo on Vimeo.

A very professional video of summer in Turkey. Congratulations to technofilm for this outstanding work.

Dumb Luck

It became an evil-looking day yesterday, warm, windy with a constant threat of storm. Add to this, in the late afternoon, the sky turned an ominous dark orange. This happens from time to time when wind from the south blows dust up from the deserts of North Africa. They call it "the Lodos." I find it charming to name the winds.

I was to meet my wife and her mother at the municipal opera house last night for "Adriana Lecouvreur" by Francesco Cilea. To say my wife is an enthusiastic opera fan is definitely an understatement. I can be convinced to attend ever so often. I enjoy the spectacle of the sets and costumes more than the actual singing. And it is always nice to get out of the house and splash a bit of culture on yourself.

Now I know that it sounds awfully posh to say lightly, "Oh, we were at the opera last night" or "Didn't I see you last week at the opera?." However, that isn't quite the case here in Turkey.

The crafters of early Republic had the noble and enlightened view that cultural events would have a civilizing effect of the society and so, made such things as operas, theater and symphonies affordable. (That's an idea that warms my heart but it is too bad that they didn't feel the same way about public libraries.)

So, going to an opera isn't furs and tuxedos, top hats and carriages waiting in the rain. The best part of this Turkish arrangement is that it allows exposure to great works of Art, which often seems much harder in American society. The sad part is that, human nature what it is, most people would prefer to wallow in the garbage of television in the privacy of their own homes, rather than making the minimal effort of going out for classic works. And I have no right to look down on anybody for doing that since I can wallow with the best of them.

My wife likes to show up early with her mother- another raving fanatic- so I was, thankfully, allowed to arrive later on my own. She knows everybody there at the opera house and they know her so I was able to escape all that fuss and waiting, hand-shaking and pretend-recognition.

For a few thousand years,  Izmir has growing around a bay, hugging it protectively like a mother, and there are two ways to travel, the long way by bus or taxi around the bay or the short way, cutting directly across by boat. That being a rush-hour, I opted for the convenience of the ferry boat crossing. With a few other wind-battered passengers, I sat in the open section, once designated for smokers. (It is rather unclear what the exact rules are, at the moment. The sign clearly warns that smoking is forbidden but nobody pays much attention. None of the crew seem interested in reminding them of the rules.)

The section was dark as a well and nearly as empty. A nuclear family on tour was trying to snap a photograph of the city and a woman fought with her long beige scarf that made Arabic script in the air. To shelter from the worst of the wind, I sat with my back against the wall, watching the gradually-narrowing panorama of Izmir.

Behind the few tall buildings sat mounds of points of lights from the homes and shops of people on the hills. Amber of the street lamps, blue or yellow lights from the windows and the green-tipped minarets of the mosques.

The social heart of the city The Kordon- that famous street with many bars and restaurants runs along the seaside-was, from that distance, a long dotted line of carnival lights that described the water's edge. I could feel the spitting rain and the sensation of waves pounding against the side of the ship as we trudged to the opposite side. The buildings became clearer, as we grew nearer and nearer and I could just make out the toy cars bumbling down the sea highway to the west.

In my ears, Leslie Feist sang to me:

There's a limit to your love
Like a waterfall in slow motion
Like a map with no ocean
There's a limit to your love
There's a limit to your care
So carelessly there
Is it truth or dare
There's a limit to your care

Beyond her song, the wind ironically mocked the sound of flames. And then suddenly, I was at peace.

How wonderful the city looked at that time of night and at that moment before the rains. A mist of endorphins, a powerful feeling of well-being. I thought of how lucky I was, and how little I generally appreciated that fact.

That I should be even here in this country. For so many years, It had been a deeply-nestled fantasy to leave home and cross the ocean and see the places other travelers had described. To travel so far. It should never have happened. I should have been too afraid to make that crossing. I should have found some excuse not to venture so far from home.

It was not all luck but most of it was. Dumb luck. That I should be here- in this 5,000 year-old city and at this time of our history- when things are convenient, when risk is manageable and avoidable and fear tolerable. And it was dumb luck to be on this rather insignificant planet at all, in what seems to be a great emptiness that nobody can explain.

360 Izmir- Asansor

Izmir Elevator 1 in Izmir

The Asansor, of Elevator, was designed as a more convenient means of travel to the living areas on the bluffs above the city. As you can see the hills offer a wonderful view of the bay but would exhaust all but the most hardy resident. Then add the summer heat or conversely, an icy winter day and you have disaster. The Asansor has been converted into an open-air cafe, a top-notch restaurant and a Genoese tavern.

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Mr. Twain Tells of the End of the World in Smyrna

The Millerites, now called the Seventh-Day Adventists, were among the sects that Sam Clemens ( Mark Twain) put in the absurd category. On Oct. 22, 1844, the (final) day forecast by famer William Miller on the basis of an alleged biblical timetable, members of the sect in the Hannibal, Missouri  area gathered at Lover's Leap to await the Second Coming of Christ and the end of the world.... Clemens later remarked, "A multitude of lunatics in America put on their ascension sheets, took a leave of their friends and got ready to fly up to heaven at the first toot of the trumpet." When Clemens visited Turkey, he found some Millerites who had come there after the failure of the predicted "resurrection day."

Twenty-five years ago, a multitude of people in America put on their ascension robes, took a tearful leave of their friends, and made ready to fly up into heaven at the first blast of the trumpet. But the angel did not blow it. Miller's resurrection day was a failure. The Millerites were disgusted. I did not suspect that there were Millers in Asia Minor, but a gentleman tells me that they had it all set for the world to come to an end in Smyrna one day about three years ago.

Mr. Shaw Visits Smyrna- 1841

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"Travels with Henry Shaw"   is an interesting site I invite you to look over. Shaw, born in 1800 in Sheffield, England, arrived at the French settlement on the banks of the Mississippi river called St. Louis when he was nineteen. He opened a hardware store which he developed until his retirement in 1840. Upon retirement, Shaw began his world travels throughout Europe, Asia Minor and the Middle East. 

In St. Louis, Missouri, Shaw's Garden, created in 1851- and still existent- is based on the Royal Botanical Garden outside of London and the Chatsworth garden in Devonshire.

The site includes journal entries from his visits to Istanbul and Izmir which are quite interesting to read.(http://www.mobot.org/blog/travelswithhenry/)

Here is a wonderful description of his entry into Smyrna (Izmir) by ship on  Friday afternoon of June 11, 1841.

The Waters of Izmir

From Hurriyet Daily News,

İZMİR - International scientists visiting İzmir hailed the city’s battle for cleaner water, comparing it to other countries’ attempts to reduce arsenic levels. Scientists gather in İzmir for the International Congress of Safe Water Production.

İzmir’s successful battle to purify its waters has been praised by international scientists. Visiting the western city for the International Congress of Safe Water Production, international scientists cited examples of cities that had high amounts of arsenic in their waters and hailed İzmir as undertaking one of the most prolific efforts to fight it. First discovered in tests conducted in the summer of 2007, arsenic levels in İzmir’s water were declared to be dangerous. Metropolitan Mayor Aziz Kocaoğlu said after measures had been taken the arsenic level had now been reduced to standard levels.

The arsenic level, which should be 10 micrograms per liter of was found to be 59 micrograms per liter in the Goksu water reservoir and 32 micrograms per liter in the Sarikiz water reservoir. Accordingly, Governor Kirac issued a notice banning its consumption. The Hurriyet article goes on,

"The numbers in İzmir may seem high, but in fact they are not, compared to our country," said Dr. Marta Litter of Argentina’s General San Martin University. "In Argentina, the arsenic level can be as high as 1,000 micrograms per liter, although it differs among seasons."

"Since 1990, there has been a serious arsenic problem in Bangladesh," said Bhattacharya. "There, the arsenic levels are almost 10 to 15 times higher than in İzmir, as high as 900 micrograms per liter. People are still not using the filtration system and drink arsenic-filled water."

Paul Sylvester from the U.S.-based Solmetex said the problem could also be seen in the United States. "In some parts of the United States, especially in the Northeast and the Southeast, there are 400 to 500 micrograms of arsenic per liter, which is way higher than İzmir’s levels," said Sylvester. "Some states were given five years to move their levels to within EU standards but it can be very expensive."

What are the dangers of arsenic?

The World Health Organization includes among the risks posed by excess long-term exposure to arsenic (arsenicosis): “skin cancer, cancers of the bladder, kidney and lung, diseases of the blood vessels of the legs and feet, and possibly also diabetes, high blood pressure and reproductive disorders.” http://www.centersforadvancedmedicine.com/blog/2008/07/big-cities-struggle-with-water-shortage-toxicity/

It is believed that recurring droughts in the Izmir left reservoirs low and amounts of naturally-occurring arsenic had been allowed to build up to unacceptable levels.

360 Izmir- Pasaport

Pasaport Sidewalk, Izmir Turkey in Izmir

Here is a wonderful panoramic shot of a sunset in winter in the Pasaport area of downtown Izmir, Turkey.

LiveJournal Tags: Izmir Turkey,Smyrna,Pasaport

360 Izmir Clock Tower

Izmir Mosque "Konak Cami" aside the Watchtower in Izmir

I am reposting this panoramic shot of the Izmir Clock tower. The previous link was somehow lost. If you click on the edges, the scene will change but gently, or your head will spin.

Ancient Viaduct - Izmir Turkey

Flickr Tags: Turkey,Roman history

Live from Izmir!

Webcams in Izmir

If a tree falls in the forest without anybody around, does it make a sound? This age old conundrum  is no longer a worry to those with enquiring minds thanks to webcams. You may not physically be there but you can spy to your heart's delight.

Below are some live-action webcams from Izmir, Turkey. As you might notice, the weather was stormy here today but, given the wintery conditions throughout Europe at the moment, I really can't complain. If you click on the links ( or the photos) you can watch us running about with our little lives like bugs.

  This is the main downtown section. In the foreground you can see the pier built Gustave Eiffel in 1890,  near the Konak Square in İzmir. It was thoroughly restored starting 2003 and was opened as an upmarket shopping mall in 2004. Since then, it became one of the landmarks  of  İzmir.     http://www.izmir.bel.tr/kamera/gumruk.html

A symbol of the city, the Izmir clock tower, situated in Konak square,  was designed by the  architect Raymond Charles Père and built in 1901 to commemorate the 25th anniversary of Abdülhamid II's (reigned 1876–1909) ascension to the throne. The tower, at a height of 25 m (82 ft), features four fountains, which are placed around the base in a circular pattern, and the columns are inspired by North African themes. The area is located just in front of the huge open shopping district of Kemeralti and near the city government buildings. http://www.izmir.bel.tr/kamera/saatkulesi.html

Yes, it isn't a very clear. It was the time of day.  In the background you can see one of the main ferryboat docks for the Konak area of Izmir. The ferries cross the bay from Karsiyaka- a sister township of Izmir- every half hour and are a relaxing way to journey to  work every morning instead of fighting traffic.  http://www.izmir.bel.tr/kamera/iskele.html

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Winter in Turkey

It very rarely snows in Izmir and when it does, this is about as much as you will normally ever see.

İstiklal Caddesi, Beyoğlu, Istanbul

Technorati Tags: Tilt-shift photography,Istanbul,snow scene,Izmir,Turkey

Clouds Over Izmir

 
Another miracle of the modern age. I just took this photo a few minutes ago of the wonderful thunderstorms over the hills behind Izmir, loaded it into my PC and posted it for all the world to see. Time: 5 minutes. The sun hasn't even set yet!

Flickr Tags: Izmir Turkey

Waiting for the Izmir Metro.. and waiting.. and waiting

  After waiting more than three years for the metro train system to reach Karsiyaka, I have decided that the whole idea must have been a joke. Trees are now growing in the cleared rail lines and the never-used stations are now home to old men who pose as security personnel. I do wonder why the city thought it necessary to close the old train line altogether and leave nothing in its place, except a series of stations and no tracks.

LiveJournal Tags: Izmir Turkey,train,urban transportation

Late Summer Afternoon in Izmir at Miko

A perfect way to escape the August heat in Izmir is to spend a few hours with a friend in Miko. A glass of white wine or a beer with lively Greek music and just enough people walking by for people watching without feeling dizzy. 

Evenings are crowded so be sure to make a reservations but on most afternoons you should be able to find a table. Years ago, the service used to be terrible and reservations were usually ignored. Today, happily the service has improved and the staff are generally diligent.

Though empty in the afternoons, here is a shot of the interior. On their website, play the clip to see the difference in the evenings. That place is hopping, daddy.

http://www.miko.com.tr/v2/

For all you culture vultures, Miko offers a classical music recital on Tuesday  and Thursday evenings. I haven’t been yet so I won’t vouch for it.  Worth checking out, I’d say.

One warning, a first glance at the menu may have you scrambling to your feet.. the management has gone all up-scale- presumably to keep out the riff-raff, like me.  However, I think it isn’t too much to ask to have a few cheaper items on the menu for a light snack in the afternoon.

Flickr Tags: Izmir Turkey

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Izmir, Turkey- Open Bazaar in Kemeralti-360

Izmir-Kemeralti-Bazaar in Izmir

Sirince

Flickr Tags: Turkey,Sirince,wine,Turkish tourism

Şirince is a wonderful little Aegean village. It is 12 kms away from Ephesus or 9 km away from Selçuk. The village name was once Cirkince(ugly). In 1926 a governor of İzmir changed this village name to Şirince(pretty). The village is a perfect harmony of Turk-Greek culture as of the 1920's. Most houses built in 19. century or earlier when Şirince was predominantly a Greek village. On the narrow streets of the Şirince you can see women selling handcrafts of all kinds, olive oil. Villagers also make wine and grow some of the best peaches in the country. Do not leave the village without testing home-made wine of Şirince.

http://e-turkey.net/v/izmir_sirince

I would suggest going during the week because it can be fairly overpopulated on weekends in the summer. It is a pleasant way to spend a day, sampling the local wine and inspecting the village life.   You will travel from Izmir to Kusadasi , but be sure to get off in Selcuk, from there you can take a minibus (found at the bus station) which has hourly runs to Sirince.  Should you wish to stay overnight, there are some old Ottoman –style houses used as hotels there. The accommodations are quite pleasant but not one would mistake for high luxury. 

LiveJournal Tags: Turkey,Sirince,tourism,Izmir Turkey

Izmir Silhouettes

 

Flickr Tags: Izmir Turkey,photography